Vitamin E

Topically applied vitamin E plays an enormous role in protecting the skin from free radical damage. Vitamin E is the most abundant antioxidant found in skin, and it is produced in human sebaceous glands in its alpha- and gamma- tocopherol forms. These tocopherols are part of a natural protective mantle that has been described and is, in fact, the first line of protection against environmental stress.As the vitamin E levels of the skin diminish, the production of alpha- and gamma-tocopherols occurs in the sebaceous glands and is delivered to the skin’s surface via sebum [11]. Oxidative damage occurs when the rate of depletion of vitamin E exceeds the rate of production.The important role of sebaceous glands and sebum in the production and delivery of vitamin E to the skin may explain the often-made observation that oily skin tends to age more slowly than drier skin. Perhaps those with oily skin have a higher vitamin E level and therefore more natural protection than those with dry skin.

The very properties that make alpha-tocopherol such a powerful antioxidant causes it to break down in the presence of oxygen or upon exposure to light. For that reason, alphatocopherol acetate, which is the more stable esterified form, is used in cosmetics. Since alphatocopherol acetate is not an antioxidant and has no antioxidant activity, it must first convert to its active alpha-tocopherol form. Years of debate questioned the ability of alpha-tocopherol acetate to be delivered to the skin and bioconverted to an active form. Finally, in 1990, the bioconversion of alpha-tocopherol acetate to free alpha-tocopherol was able to be demonstrated [12]. In addition, formulation enhancement using certain delivery systems has demonstrated the ability to deliver significant levels to the skin followed by bioconversion once in the skin.


The use of vitamin E in skin care has anti-aging benefits based on its moisturization properties but mostly on its protective capabilities. Dr. Lester Packer documented the depletion of vitamin E levels in skin following UV radiation [13]. In addition, he was able to document significantly higher levels in the skin following the application of a cream containing 5% tocopherol acetate over 10 days. He also demonstrated the antioxidant role of vitamin E against the oxidative stress caused by ozone [14, 15].

The protective role of vitamin E extends to skin care preparations by enhancing their stability and shelf life. A change in color or texture is a sure sign that a cosmetic product is oxidizing and should not be used. Patients ought to be told that the breakdown of the product will continue as it is applied to their skin.When cosmetic products contain ingredients that are easily oxidized, such as vitamins or natural extracts, the use of alpha-tocopherol in conjunction with ascorbyl palmitate acts as a powerful antioxidant system preventing oxidation. In addition, the combination of alpha-tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate can prevent the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines [16].

The enhanced ability of vitamin E as a moisturizer with its added benefits of skin smoothness and softness is attributed partly to its ability to penetrate the skin and provide cumulative benefits [16].Vitamin E enhances the photoprotective effects of sunscreen, and when combined with vitamin C, the two are even stronger as photoprotectants [17, 18].